Foggy Summer Nights

I am in somewhat of a fog.  Maybe it is due to being overworked or sleep deprived.  I keep forgetting to allow myself the time to reflect on some of my culinary adventures. Like, for instance, Plum Preview Dinner # 3 at Il Cane Rosso, 2 Monday's ago. What a great night that was.  It was nice to see the Master Chef Daniel Patterson in his element.  He really delivered a menu that  highlighted his abilities to create the most delicious savory dishes and show his soft and sweet side as well.

The table first got a most righteous snack of crisp chicken skin dosed with seaweed powder.  It was momentary and fantastic.  We were a group of robust diners at this table.  3 Bears and a skinner, tall guy to be exact. But we still managed to share graciously.

Then came our own dishes of warm smoked black cod- potato puree with a grilled pepper wild fennel relish and olive oil cracker.  The dish was delivered at the most perfect temperature, warm and edible.  And boy, did we chow down.

You can imagine our delight when the next dish, a cauliflower glazed with lemon & garum, bulghur, and a dandelion salsa verde arrived. Here was that sweet side I was referring to.  It balanced out the previous course and was great preparation for what was up next.

This time, slow-cooked pork shoulder, turnip-apple miso and fresh seaweeds. It screamed Peter Brady, 21st Century Style. It was cooked preciously the way you handle that meat. That plate looked incredible as with all the dishes of the night.  everything was so thoughtful and full of subtle and intentional detail.  It also helped to have a very delightful server to enhance the whole experience.

So, we got to the tail end of our prix fixe and a raspberry custard with sable breton, some yogurt and rooiboos was placed in front of each of us.  Gorgeous, both in presentation and taste.  They also had these yummy curried chocolate covered almonds to share. Again, the company of men acted appropriately with fair portions to snack on.

We stumbled over to Slanted Door for a nightcap and a chance to reflect on our great meal.  Although the fog was thick that night and the air very cool, our bellies kept us warm. We toasted one another a true and happy "Cheers!"

100 Reasons To Celebrate A New Mission Destination

Last night I got to visit some old friends at the new Commonwealth restaurant located on Mission Street.  I was with Jake for their soft opening and it was fantastic.  First of all, the room is elegant and comfortable.  I had been to the space for a beer tasting not too long ago, when it was still under construction and I amazed at the results.  But let's get to the menu, shall we?

Jake and I were hungry and certainly left satisfied.  We were sipping on some white wine and ordering like Mad Men.  The first dish to arrive were the Shishito peppers with goat cheese and rose petals.  A perfect combination of flavor and spice.  The goat cheese balanced it out well.  We shared the summer squash, which was a chilled soup with fried squash blossoms, shaved salad and Vadouven.  I may not know what that all means but it certainly tasted good.  The blossoms were the stars of the dish, but everything that accompanied deserves Best Supporting Nods too.

Moving on to those garden tomatoes and basil.  Man, that was incredible!  Just think about this for a minute. Black olive crumble! Smoked bread! And that Idiazabal cheese took the cake.  Very in season and very addicting.  But the dish of the night had to be the potato gnocchi.  Everyone was talking about it too.  It had corn, it had Maitake mushrooms.  But the truffle oil and the sage with the Parmesan Reggiano made it heavenly.  That gnocchi was so smooth and delicious, I could have walked into the kitchen and stolen another helping if I wasn't so bashful.

We had to order the brown butter poached skate wing with cauliflower, Dashi and sea beans.  Also in season right now and done with real thought, precision and class.  This dish exploded with yummyness.  I was reminded of Le Jules Verne in Paris with the foam on the plate.  I love foam!  I also loved loved loved the guinea hen and spot prawn. Three words, chocolate-almond emulsion.  I was onto a great glass of red wine at this point.

There was a salt cured Foie Gras on the Chef's Tasting Menu that we had to try.  We boldly asked for it and truly were glad.  It had Umeboshi and a seaweed brioche to spread it on.  We each had our own plate to avoid confrontation.  Mine disappeared too quickly.  Very impressive.

When it came time for dessert we ordered the White Russian.  This epic combo of coffee ice cream, Vodka Gelee, raw milk mousse and Genoise cake.  And we can't forget the Cinnamon Mille-Feuille with cardamom marshmallow, chocolate ganache and burnt honey ice cream.  It reminded me of the ultimate broken down smore. 

My curiosity about the narwhal was killing me from the dinner menu.  They mentioned nitrogen and that was it.  I needed to try this floc de gascogne, sake, ambrosia melon and shiso.  It was tremendous and worked as a last course.  The familiar faces and the ease of the night were very noteworthy, especially for a soft opening.  They had everything under a meticulous control and made it look easy.  I was so proud to be among the first to experience this place.

The Subtle Perfections Are Evident At Baker & Banker

A week ago my friend Steve was visiting from Pasadena. We made plans to hang out and grab dinner. I had heard great things about Baker & Banker up in the Pacific Heights area.  And we really did enjoy our visit. The food, the service, the ambiance is all here on Octavia Street. I felt a little out-of-place because of my attire.  I chose the comfortable look with a T-Shirt and jeans.  But, so what, it is after all, California. And they still welcomed us with open arms.

Upon arrival in the dining room, Chef Lori recognized me right away.  She was so nice and immediately offered us glasses of Francois Pinon Vouvray Petillant "Non-Dose" (2008) to sip while they got our table together.  We ordered another round after we sat down and placed our order.

The Grilled octopus salad, yellow watermelon, spicy Asian vinaigrette, sea beans just seemed too good to pass up. It was quite something.  The elegant octopus was so delicious alongside that fruit and the spice was just the right amount.  It was one of those remarkable dishes that stays with you.  The Sparkles paired incredibly well with it too.

Lori makes the most amazing bread that goes in their Bread baskets.  I should know, I ordered 2 more baskets after the initial one. And if you want to go after my heart, that's the secret. Bread is life, it warms you. It is so satisfying when done well.

I continued to warm up with a glass of Von Simmern Erbacher Marcobrunn Riesling (2007).   At this point the Soy and mirin braised black cod had arrived.  The texture of the fish was truly a masterpiece.  I had a chance to mention it when Lori's husband came around to check on us. Jeff was so gracious too, as I mentioned how in love I was with his foie gras-shitake sticky rice.  I traded bites of my dish for Steve's Housemade pappardelle, wild mushrooms, summer squash, roasted ricotta salata and fresh mint.  No wonder it got all silent during our main courses.  We were under the spell and the flavors were bursting and leaving their mark.

The seduction reached it's max as we moved into dessert.  Once again, Lori took charge and we not only got the PB&J but the crisp as well.  The PB& J was her strawberry jam filled doughnuts with the most decadent peanut butter dipping sauce. The crisp was made with Nectarine and plum , brown sugar-pecan streusel and blueberry swirl ice cream.  Both nearly blew us out of our chairs.  We were childlike and competitive when it came to sticking our forks and spoons.  The whole meal was a work of art.  I felt spoiled and delighted all at the same time.  I look forward to going back to the bakery they are just opening next door!

A Quick Bite And A Few Flights

The other night, I had a chance to finally try Spencer on the Go.  I have been to Chez Spencer many times but never their food truck.  I was with my friend, Tabitha, and my dog.  It was a cool night but we  still decided to eat outside. We practically had everything on the menu too.  The first thing we popped in our mouths were the Escargot Puff Lollipops.  They were "bananas!" I wish I ordered 6 of them.  We were also very impressed with the slider they had on the menu that night.  The meat was cooked to perfection.

Other things we shared included the Cauliflower Soup and Lobster Bisque. I loved the truffles in the Lobster Bisque and the cream. We insisted on asking for croutons for dipping. And the Parmesan chip layered in the Cauliflower Soup was excellent.  They certainly warmed us up with the chill in the air.

The Roasted Beet Salad with the Point Reyes Blue Cheese was so plentiful. And the Asparagus was also very tasty.  I insisted we try the Braised Lamb Cheeks Sandwich as well and I am so glad we did.  It was just the right amount of food we needed to continue on for cocktails next door.

Waiter, my pooch is welcome at Bloodhound right there on Folsom Street, so we walked over there for some whiskey and beer.  We had a Four Roses Bloodhound Barrel straight up to heat things up.  I ordered a Belgian Beer to follow it up. A mighty fine Abbey called Tripel Karmelie .  After 2 rounds we called it quits and headed home.  It was just one of those perfect, San Francisco, cold, summer nights. 

A Tale Of Two Lunches...And A Dinner

Last Friday, I officially began working in the coffee business. Oakland is a landmark for coffee.  Some of the best on the planet.  I am excited for the commute over there because drinking coffee and espresso are a big part of my daily routine.  That and beer guzzling are some my favorite hobbies.  I was pretty caffeinated throughout that first morning on the job.  I had a stop at Ritual before hitting the gym.  And then it was off to ROASTCO and my new sales gig.  I had a cup of their Kenyan blend and it perked me right up.  I needed it after my crazy chest and triceps workout earlier that morning.

The area I work in is pretty close to some amazing beer spots and restaurants.  Everywhere I ate that day had Linden St Black Lager on tap.  It is probably one of the best local beers around.  It seems from it's color that it would taste a certain way.  You will be surprised at the taste though, if you have a chance to try it.  I had 2 pints at Chop Bar with a Yucatan Grilled Chicken Torta. It's there Mexican-style sandwich with avocado, queso fresco, tomato, & ancho chile aioli and is served with a jicama salad.  It was mad good.  The menu in general looks very intriguing too.  I even got to chat with the owner, Chris, a bit.   Nice guy.  Mellow guy from back east, like me. Yeah, right...

I still had an appetite and saw the line around the corner at Brown Sugar Kitchen.  I heard about the legendary Fried Chicken Waffle they do.  I am really looking forward to trying that very soon.  Meanwhile, I asked Rachel, a server what a 1st timer should try.  She insisted on the BBQ Pulled Pork Sandwich and a side the Smoked Mashed Yams. So, I sat at the counter with another Black Lager and  ate my 2nd lunch.  I was a hog in heaven and I smiled all the way through my incredible sandwich.  Those yams are screaming! I can't wait to go back there and eat more.

After some champagne at Laura's house during cocktail hour that evening,  the July Birthday Club was off to dinner for our 2nd annual tradition.  Last year it was me and Lori being taken out by Laura to Chez Panisse. This year, we were a foursome at Pizzaiolo.  It was hosted by Jim and Laura this time. Our hosts treated us in decadent style.  It also helped to have Cate as our barkeep.  She made me some of her favorite drinks on the menu. Like the Metà del Turno.  It's  gin, lemon, amaro nonino, chamomile honey & fernet.  It was a great starter.

Other starters started to head to our table too.  Flatbreads with eggplant spread, broccolini, spicy carrots and  yogurt and the Burrata da Di Stefano with cherry tomatoes and a toast, arrived first. Anything from that oven, especially with Charlie on the deck is sublime.  So toast, flatbread, that Pizze with Rapini & housemade sausage that we had...phenominal!

The ladies ordered a bottle of Sangiovese Chianti Rufina, Fattoria Selvapiana ‘08 as the Star Route Farm garden lettuces and Heirloom tomatoes & cucumbers with fried squash blossoms were being passed around. How can you not order a fried squash blossom?  That's just stupid.

Jim got the pasta handkerchiefs with fresh ricotta, basil pesto & cherry tomatoes for the table as well as the ribeye steak with shoestring potatoes & a wild arugula salad.  Everyone was sharing the dishes as I continued with another drink from Cate.  This time a Bourbon Buck with lime, ginger, orange, cane sugar & peychaud's bitters.  It was extraordinary.

We didn't even need to order dessert because gifts kept a coming.  We had the bittersweet chocolate port le creme, puff pastry tartlet with vanilla custard & roasted Blossom Buff Farm peaches and the Spring Bright nectarine sorbet.  It was a grand feast and we were treated like kings and queens.  The day was something for the record books. 

Industry Party Hopping

Last night was pretty exciting. I took the 24 Bus up to Jackson and Webster and walked through Pacific Heights. I was in route to Union Street for the 1st of 2 restaurant opening parties.  I was a bit early, so I stopped in for a couple Scrimshaws at the Bus Stop.  My friend Jake joined me and after our beers, we walked over to Cafe Des Amis.  There was a line around the corner and we saw lots a familiar faces awaiting entry. 

Once inside, we headed straight to the bar for some beer.  So far, I am loving their tap list.  First, I started off with a California Ale from Telegraph Brewing Company.  I really enjoyed that one.  Then came a Blanche de Bruxelles.  Really refreshing stuff! But the Bacchus was my favorite.  I believe it to have been a sour beer and it was delicious.

If the Hors d'oeuvres are an indication of what will be coming out of the kitchen tomorrow night, when they open to the public, we are certainly in for some treats.  On one side of the this beautiful, spacious layout, servers were handing out savory beef sandwiches.  Back and up the stairs in another stunning room, if you stood by the table direct to the kitchen, you were treated to oysters, sliders, lamb chops and even stuffed chicken. Oh, I also had many salty chocolate bites, tiny eclairs and mini cheesecakes.

The night didn't stop there. Jake and I hopped into a cab and drove to Mint Plaza for the opening party for Thermidor.  This place looks fantastic.  I believe they are officially open as of last week.  And the space looks very impressive.  And the cocktail program looks and tasted good from what I sampled.  We started with a couple bourbons on the rocks to get things going.  As we walked the room,  other whiskey cocktails were handed off to me.  I was loving life.


And life continued to get better as Jake treated me to a late night supper at Chez Papa Resto next door.  And treat is an understatement. We began with glasses of Rose champagne and then a great bottle of red wine.  We ate well too.  We noshed on some Snake River Kobe Beef Tartare with Dijon Mustard, Capers, Shallots, Garlic and Toast Points. I thought it was very flavorful and had a nice texture.  I really enjoyed the Dirty Girl Farm Strawberry and Beet Salad with Favas, Arugula, Pistachios and Aged Humboldt Fog.  We also had the Bouillabaisse and the Duck as our main courses and they were outrageous.  We left full and happy.  Just another typical Monday night in the city.

A Night I'll Always Remember...

It was quite the dinner we had, the other night at Murray Circle in Cavallo Point (Fort Baker).  I went with my buddy Grant who knows this place inside out.  We immediately were sat at the money table and drinks were a flowing.  I decided to have a cocktail before I started ordering food.  And the Blood & Sand sounded right up my alley.  It had Achentoshan 12 yr, Roi Rene, Carpano Antica and orange.  Basically, that translates into scotch and vermouth and other goodness.  And boy, was it good. Just what the doctor ordered, to get the meal on it's way.

We had a bottle of Burgundy brought over as we made decisions on the vast menu. And then came some amuse bouches.  The first, was the sweet pea tortellini with Domestic Oscetra Caviar and a sweet pea gazapacho.  I have had that sweet pea gazapacho before and I just love the Serrano Chile and citrus ice they use in it's preparation.  But that tortellini was something else.  Man, with the Caviar all up-in-it.

The decadence continued when another amuse bouche arrived.  This time we had Halibut and foie gras.  Sassafras salt-cured Halibut, Carpaccio wrapping a Halibut Crudo, a little fresh fennel, served over a vanilla-roasted pineapple, finished with shaved foie gras and a sherry vinaigrette. It was bite size but I ate both, as my friend Grant does not care for fish.  It was presented and executed in such a great fashion.  I was thoroughly impressed.

I had already tried all 5 types of bread in the bread basket by now.  There was the whole wheat sourdough, a ciabatta, some Japanense seaweed bread, a spring onion semolina and fennel mustard seed bread. They were all pretty fantastic.  I used some of the bread to soak up the wild foraged porcini's that were braised and served "a la grecque with a pecan vinaigrette and aged sheep's milk cheese on top.

Along with mushrooms came an order of the coal-roasted baby beets with a crispy quinoa cake, a little dill puree, fresh ricotta cheese, sherry vinegar and a beet green tapenade. And the summer squash served over a Yellowfin Tuna Carpaccio with lemon verbena vinaigrette.  These dishes were both beautiful to look at and delectable to the palate.

To finish up the fruits & vegetables, I also had the green garlic vichyssoise served with a smoked paprika oil, spiced almonds, grilled grapes and grilled Spot Prawns from Oxnard, California. And this was just the robust beginning to a even fuller meal to come.

Grant gave me a bite of the chicken & foie grais, which is  a country style terrine served with porcini mushroom, chicken foie gras vinaigrette with mizuna greens and a smoked sweet tea brined chicken breast. Normally, you can find this dish on the Grand Tasting menu.  We had a special portion made just for us. It defined the term specialty.

As the Burgundy continued to pour,  the Pacific Cod from the Fishing Vessel, Linda Ann, (Bolinas) arrived. It was served with Madeira glazed veal sweetbreads, tempura battered shiso and a sugar snap pea salad with a peanut vinaigrette. It was a perfect pairing of meat, fish and vino! 

Grant ordered a double portion of the wood grilled Marin Sun Farms grass fed beef.  It was ribeye served with a mytoki mushroom & mizuna salad and a parmesan potato gratin with a Cabernet Gastrique. I had a bite, it was tremendous.

My lamb dish was young pasture raised from Red Hill Farm in Petaluma. It consisted of a lamb chop with merguez sausage that is wood grilled and a leg served with a dry cured black olive paste. Finishing the dish off, was a neck and shank cannelloni that had been braised in a sheep's milk yogurt and served with compressed cucumber. It was a three-way done remarkably.


When the dessert menus hit the table, so did glasses of a fine sherry, a Moscato d'Asti and a Madeira.  Grant insisted we try several selections.  So we had a butterscotch soufflé, baked to order, with a butterscotch blondie and served with vanilla ice cream.  The next dessert was a strawberry tart served over a chamomile cream with strawberry preserves and a formage blanc sorbet. Then came a lemon creme brulee served with pistachio whipped cream, limoncello granita and grapefruit segements. Suddenly, a chilled cherry consume came out, served with roasted cherry sorbet, creme fraiche ice cream and pistachio tuile. Lastly, a short stack of blueberry pancakes with a blueberry caramel came out.  Grant insisted that I needed to experience it's blueberry sorbet and the citrus butter.  I experienced it all.  I was a cochon, but I loved it.

We walked the grounds and my dog after the meal to let it all digest.  I was blown away by the service, the quality of the food and the libations.  But, I was equally moved by the night itself.  It was one of those magical evenings that will remain in my memory bank forever.  Thanks to Grant for making it happen.